The Royal Military Canal – Long Distance Walk Guide
The Royal Military Canal is a fascinating 28-mile (45 km) long waterway that runs through the beautiful countryside of Kent and East Sussex. This impressive canal from early 19th-century was originally constructed as a defensive measure against the threat of Napoleon’s invasion, but today it’s a great place to walk, cycle or just relax by the water.
Starting from just outside the historic town of Hythe in Kent, the Royal Military Canal winds its way through the Romney Marsh with flat fields, and old mystical churches, before reaching its end at Cliff End in East Sussex just outside Rye.
The canal walk route passes through the seaside town of Hythe, beautiful village of Appledore, with cute cottages and amazing views across the marsh; the busy town of Rye, with cobbled streets, historic pubs, and impressive medieval architecture; and the sleepy village of Winchelsea, with an interesting history dating back to the 13th century.
My favourite part of the Royal Military Canal Walk
Apart from the pretty path along the canal, I really enjoyed walking though the Romney Marsh, where the land is like a patchwork divided by lots of water drainage ditches. I’ve done this walk in several sections, mostly as a ‘there & back’ walk as the public transport along the way is a bit sparse.
It’s nice to see that people don’t use this path only for walking. I’ve also see people fishing and you can even take a boat trip for part of the way. There are also a lot of cyclists, so if you are a walker that something you need to be aware as some parts of the path are quite narrow.
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The Royal Military Canal Long Distance Walk – Practical Information
DISTANCE: 28 miles (45 km)
STARTING POINT: Seabrook near Folkestone (just outside Hythe)
FINISHING POINT: Cliff End (Pett’s Level) in East Sussex just outside Rye
WALK DIFFICULTY & TERRAIN: The towpath is well-maintained and mostly level and perfect for walkers and cyclists of all ages and abilities.
FACILITIES: There are pubs & cafes along the way (mostly around the larger towns and villages)
ACCESSING THE PATH: There are several car parks at various points of the canal and easy public transport to Hythe, Rye and Appledore (Appledore and Hamstreet train stations are the closest to the middle of the canal walk)
Best way to walk the Royal Military Canal
The Royal Military Canal stretches for approximately 28 miles (45 km) from Seabrook near Folkestone (just outside Hythe) to Cliff End near Hastings (just beyond Rye). There is no right or wrong way to walk this long distance path as it’s fairly flat and you can easily start walking from any point on the trail.
Since I live in Kent, I’ve been walking the path from Seabrook, because it was the closest starting point. I’ve also noticed that the path has been well maintained there and new explanation and display boards added, which makes the walk even more interesting.
While it’s possible to walk the entire length of the canal in one go, I think it’s better to break it up into smaller, more manageable sections. I started to walk the canal from Seabrook end of the canal. Sometimes, because we arrive by car, we do each section as there and back walk.
Appledore and Ham Street (not directly on the canal, but close enough) have train stations with trains going back to Rye, so you could easily park your car at Rye and walk to Appledore (or Ham Street – another 3 km) and get train back.
- Seabrook to Hythe (3.5 miles / 5.6 km) – newly updated with information panels
- Hythe to West Hythe (4 miles / 6.4 km) – newly updated with information panels (part of the way)
- West Hythe to Appledore (7.5 miles / 12 km)
- Appledore to Rye (7 miles / 11.3 km)
- Rye to Cliff End (6 miles / 9.7 km)
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Pubs & Cafes along the Royal Military Canal
I always bring packed lunch, snacks and hot coffee flask, but sometimes it’s good to know that there are places on the way, where you can rest your weary legs and have something to eat and drink. I’ve listed pubs, cafes and places that are right (or very close) to the canal path, but large towns like Hythe and Rye have plenty more pubs, cafes and also food supermarkets.
- Best Thyme Cafe & Restaurant (on the canal, at the start) + more pubs & food shops at Seabrook
- The Red Lion ( 50 m from the canal) + plenty of cafes, supermarkets, food shops and more pubs in Hythe
- Hop Fuzz Brewery & Unit 1 restaurant & cafe at West Hythe (right on the canal path)
- The White Horse Pub, Bilsington (200 m from the canal)
- Dukes Head – Hamstreet (300 m from the canal)
- Miss Mollett’s High Class Tea Room, Appledore (100 m from the canal)
- The Black Lion, Appledore (50 m from the canal) + more pubs & shops at Appledore
- Rye – plenty of pubs, cafes, restaurants and food shops
- Eaters@Pett Cafe, Pett Level (right next to the end of the canal path)
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History of the Royal Military Canal
In 1804, during the Napoleonic Wars, the British government feared that Napoleon Bonaparte would attempt to invade England by crossing the English Channel and landing on the low-lying coastline of Romney Marsh.
To counter this threat, Lieutenant-Colonel John Brown of the Royal Staff Corps proposed the construction of a defensive canal that would stretch from Seabrook, near Folkestone, to Cliff End in East Sussex, a distance of approximately 28 miles (45 km).
Construction of the Royal Military Canal began in October 1804, with the first sod being turned by John Rennie, a renowned civil engineer. The canal was dug entirely by hand, with a workforce of around 1,500 men, including local laborers and prisoners of war. The design included a raised bank on the landward side, which would provide a platform for artillery and troops to defend against an invading army.
The canal also had a military road running alongside it (which you can still see in parts), allowing for the rapid movement of soldiers and supplies. Despite facing challenges such as harsh weather conditions and a shortage of manpower, the canal was completed in April 1809, at a total cost of £234,000 (equivalent to approximately £20 million today).
Although the threat of a French invasion never materialized, the Royal Military Canal played a crucial role in improving Britain’s coastal defenses during the Napoleonic Wars.
In the following decades, the canal’s military significance diminished, and the canal started to be used as a waterway to transport goods and passengers. In 1909, the canal was sold to the South Eastern and Chatham Railway Company, which used it to transport coal and other materials.
During World War II, the canal was once again utilized for defensive purposes, with pillboxes and other fortifications being built along its banks.
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What can you see along the way (including hidden gems)
Hythe
As you start the canal walk you will first walk through Hythe, which is a lovely seaside town in Kent, that has been a significant port and market town since the Middle Ages, including being one of the Kent Cinque Ports.
Probably the most intriguing building is the 11th-century St. Leonard’s Church, which has a bone ossuary containing the remains of over 2,000 people. Hythe has very pretty High Street with traditional shops, cafes, and restaurants and more antique shops that you could possibly browse through in one afternoon.
The pebble beach and Victorian promenade has amazing views across the English Channel, and the nearby Brockhill Country Park has very pretty lakes, woodlands, and plenty of wildlife.
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Romney, Hythe & Dymchurch Railway
The Hythe railway station is just a few steps away from the canal path and here you can find the Romney, Hythe & Dymchurch Railway (RH&DR), which is a historic narrow-gauge railway that runs for 13.5 miles (21.7 km) from Hythe to Dungeness. The railway was opened in 1927 and it has a miniature steam and diesel locomotives, which operate on a track gauge of just 15 inches (380 mm).
The journey from Hythe to Dungeness takes approximately 45 minutes and the train takes you through the villages of Dymchurch and St. Mary’s Bay, as well as the next seaside town of New Romney. The train runs through open countryside, but also in between houses and just outside people’s gardens. It’s a definitely a very different train experience! The terminus at Dungeness is right next to the largest shingle beach in the whole England and you get a slightly unexpected view of a historic lighthouse and nuclear power station.
Palmarsh Lakes
Just outside of Hythe and slightly off the canal path, you’ll come across the tranquil Palmarsh Lakes, a series of small lakes and ponds that are full of wildlife, including kingfishers, herons, and dragonflies. This peaceful spot is perfect for a picnic.
Hythe Sound Mirror & the Sound Mirror Receiver Station
The Hythe Sound Mirror was built in the late 1920s as a part of a larger network of acoustic detection devices designed to provide early warning of enemy aircraft approaching the coast of Britain.
The Hythe Sound Mirror was the largest and most advanced of these devices, and it was capable of detecting aircraft at a range of up to 25 miles (40 kilometers) under optimal conditions.
The Hythe Sound Mirror is a large, concave concrete structure, measuring 30 feet (9 meters) in diameter. Its shape is designed to focus sound waves from distant aircraft engines onto a central point, where a microphone or a human listener could detect the sound and determine the direction of the approaching plane.
Despite their limitations, the sound mirrors played an important role in the development of early warning systems and laid the groundwork for the later development of radar technology. The Hythe Sound Mirror and its associated research station were used for experimental purposes throughout the 1930s, but were eventually superseded by radar and other more advanced detection methods.
The site itself is on a private land, so it’s not open to public, but you can just about see the mirror from the canal path and there is also a display board explaining the history.
St Mary’s Church Ruins in West Hythe
St Mary’s Church is a fascinating historic site that dates back to the early medieval period. The exact date of the church’s construction is unknown, but it is believed to have been built in the late 11th or early 12th century. The church was originally dedicated to St Mary and served as a parish church for the village of West Hythe.
In the 13th century, the church was expanded with the addition of a chancel and a north aisle. The church tower, which still stands today, was likely built during this period as well.
During the 14th century, the church fell into disrepair and was eventually abandoned. The exact reasons for the church’s decline are unclear, but it may have been due to the Black Death, which decimated the local population, or the shifting of the coastline, which left the church isolated from the main village.
In the 16th century, the church was partially dismantled, with some of its stone being used to build nearby Saltwood Castle. The church tower, however, remained intact and was used as a lookout point during the Napoleonic Wars in the early 19th century.
Archaeological excavations at the site have revealed a wealth of information about the church’s history and the people who worshipped there. In the 1960s, a team of archaeologists led by John Parsons discovered a number of burials within the church, including the remains of a woman who had been buried with a pair of scissors and a set of keys, indicating her status as a housewife or a member of the clergy.
Today, the ruins of St Mary’s Church are a scheduled ancient monument and a Grade II listed building. The site is managed by English Heritage and you can see the church easily from the road.
West Hythe Dam
As you leave the village of West Hythe, you’ll see the impressive West Hythe Dam, a large earthwork structure that was built in the early 19th century to control flooding in the area. There is a another interpretation panel that explains the history.
Port Lympne Reserve
Port Lympne Reserve is a large wildlife park and conservation centre, which is covers over 600 acres of beautiful countryside along the canal walk.
The park has over 900 animals from across the globe, including endangered species such as gorillas, tigers, and rhinos, which you can see in their natural habitats. The reserve is also dedicated to conservation and breeding programs, working to protect threatened species and reintroduce them to their native habitats.
You can explore the park on foot, by safari truck, or even by staying overnight in one of the reserve’s luxurious lodges or glamping tents.
Stutfall Castle Ruins
Stutfall Castle is sometimes also called the Roman Fort at Lympne and you can see the ruins on top of a hill overlooking the Romney Marsh and canal.
The origins of Stutfall Castle date back to the Roman period, when it was established as a fort in the late 3rd century AD as part of the Saxon Shore defenses.
The fort was strategically positioned to guard the coastline against Saxon raiders and was one of several such fortifications along the southern and eastern coasts of Britain. The castle’s remains include the foundations of the Roman walls and towers, as well as the outlines of the internal buildings and structures.
In the medieval period, a Norman castle was built on the same site, utilizing the existing Roman fortifications.
St. Rumwold’s Church
In the village of Bonnington, you’ll find the charming St. Rumwold’s Church, a small, 11th-century chapel with a fascinating history. According to legend, St. Rumwold was a child saint who lived for just three days, but during that time, he preached a sermon, recited the Lord’s Prayer, and asked to be baptized.
Bilsington Priory
Near the village of Bilsington, you’ll come across the ruins of Bilsington Priory, a 13th-century Augustinian priory that was dissolved during the reign of Henry VIII.
The priory was founded in the early 13th century, around 1253, by John Mansell, a wealthy statesman and clergyman who served as a counselor to King Henry III. It was established as a house for Augustinian canons, who followed the Rule of St. Augustine. The priory was dedicated to the Virgin Mary and St. Augustine.
Throughout its history, Bilsington Priory remained a relatively small religious house. It was home to a prior and a small number of canons, who lived a life of prayer, study, and service to the local community. The priory held lands and properties in the surrounding area, which helped to support its activities.
During the Dissolution of the Monasteries under King Henry VIII in the 16th century, Bilsington Priory was dissolved. Following the dissolution, the priory buildings and lands were granted to Sir Anthony Aucher, a prominent local landowner.
Today, little remains of the original priory buildings. However, some fragments of the priory church and other structures can still be seen incorporated into later farm buildings and houses in the area. The beautiful setting is now being used for weddings, birthday celebrations or other events or you can book the restaurant for a special meal or an afternoon tea.
Bilsington Monument
Slightly away from the canal in the village called Bilsington, you will find a Bilsington Monument, also known as the Cosway Monument or the Bilsington Obelisk.
The monument was built in 1835 in memory of Sir William Cosway, a local landowner and benefactor who had died the previous year. The obelisk, which is about 50 feet (15 meters) tall, is made of local ragstone and has a square base with inscriptions commemorating Sir William’s life and contributions to the area, such establishing a school and promoting agricultural improvements for the benefit of the local community.
Fairfield Church
As you walk past the Applegate village, you might be able to see a Fairfield Church in a distance. It’s an isolated 13th-century church that stands alone in the middle of the marsh. The church has unusual wooden bell tower and it’s one of the most photographed churches in the area.
According to a local legend, the church was built by St Thomas a Becket, the Archbishop of Canterbury, who was saved from drowning in the marches by a farmer. As a thank you, he commissioned the church to be built there – in the middle of the Romney Marches.
Hamstreet Village
Hamstreet village’s origins can be traced back to the Saxon period, and it was mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1086 as “Hamestede.” Over the centuries, Hamstreet has maintained its rural character, with many traditional buildings and a strong sense of community. The 13th-century St. Mary’s Church has a distinctive Norman tower and houses a rare 14th-century wall painting.
Ham Street Woods National Nature Reserve
Ham Street Woods National Nature Reserve is a beautiful and ecologically important woodland near the village of Ham Street. The reserve covers an area of approximately 250 hectares (618 acres) and is very close to the Royal Military Canal.
The woods are part of Orlestone Forest, a fragmented area of woodland that is what remains of a continuous oak forest that once covered the Weald. Ham Street Woods is particularly important because of the diverse mix of woodland habitats, including sweet chestnut coppice, oak standards, ash and alder trees.
The reserve also has over 200 species of flowering plants, including the rare and protected lady orchid. You can also spot different birds here, including nightingales, lesser spotted woodpeckers and hawfinches.
Apart from being an important woodland reserve the Ham Street Woods has a fascinating history. During World War II, the woods were used as a decoy site to divert enemy bombers away from the nearby town of Ashford. Dummy buildings and lights were set up to mimic the town, and the site was staffed by a dedicated team of Royal Air Force personnel.
Appledore
Appledore is a very pretty village which was already mentioned in the Domesday Book in 1086. The village has a beautiful 14th-century church, dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, as well as a quaint high street lined with traditional cottages and historic buildings.
Rye
Rye is a historic town just outside Kent in East Sussex and like Hythe, it was once a member of the Cinque Ports confederation. The town’s picturesque streets and medieval architecture date back to 11th century.
On the top of the hill in the middle of the town you can find the Ypres Tower, which used to be part of a 13th-century castle that now houses the Rye Castle Museum. There are also several historic churches, including St Mary’s Church, which has stunning views of the surrounding area from its tower. Rye’s quaint cobbled streets are lined with independent shops, art galleries, and restaurants, as well as traditional inns and tearooms.
Rye Harbour Nature Reserve
As you approach the eastern end of the canal, you’ll have the opportunity to explore the Rye Harbour Nature Reserve, a stunning coastal wetland that is home to a wide variety of birds, plants, and other wildlife. The reserve has several walking trails and bird hides, perfect if you are a birdwatcher.
This blog post was originally published on 12 February 2025 and last updated on 12 February 2025
